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Marlowe Ladies Continue Winning Burger Streak At S&R Lounge

A preview of bites and drinks from San Francisco’s new Hotel Zetta

Pigs in a blanket are reinvented with coin-width pieces of sausage wrapped in bacon and puff pastry and crowned with sauerkraut, mustard and chives.

The Valley, a sweet cocktail of mezcal, pineapple and chile; herb, butter and sea salt popcorn in the background.

“Cocktail olives,” a snack born from chef Puccio’s love of dirty martinis, comes with loads of olives and pickled pearl onions doused in a combination of vodka, olive juice and lemon oil that’s good enough to sip.

The crustless grilled cheese is made to look like it’s from a kid’s menu, but its combo of truffled sottocenere cheese and apple is rather adult.

The Jesse Street, made with rum, velvet falernum, ginger and lager, is one of several beer cocktails on the menu.

The burger ($16) comes with a heap of fries: Crispy on the outside, hot and creamy in the middle, they won’t go uneaten.

Last night I visited Soma’s new Hotel Zetta (55 Fifth Street). The newest “urban retreat” from the Viceroy Hotel Group, the entire project required a 12 million dollar transformation of the defunct Milano Hotel. In the lobby area is S&R Lounge. Short for salvage & rescue, its funky decorations include a three-tier chandelier made from repurposed reading glasses, a horse statue made out of cassette tapes, and a back-lit wall-covering of Alcatraz prisoner headshots. Much like the Ace properties across the U.S., the hotel’s hangout area is aimed toward locals. Last night’s big buyouts from Square and NoisePop attest that they’re already fitting the bill.

I was there to try the food and cocktails. Anna Weinberg and chef Jennifer Puccio, the owners of Park Tavern and Marlowe are overseeing all kitchen operations for the hotel, including room service, S&R Lounge, and the adjacent Cavalier restaurant, slated to open in early August. Viceroy was smart to reach out to Weinberg and Puccio in order to complete their tactic of attracting locals.

Now you can flip through the gallery above for a detailed look at specific bites and cocktails from S & R Lounge. The standout was—are you surprised?—the burger. Weinberg and Puccio are already verified burger experts thanks to their widely acclaimed creations at Park Tavern and Marlowe. To come up with the proportions and toppings for the hotel’s burger, the ladies thought about what kind of burger they would want if they were really, really drunk. The result was this beautiful vision, cooked to a perfect, juicy medium-rare, oozing with dijonaise and cheddar cheese, and placed on a soft Panorama bun with thick slabs of organic bacon. It tasted pretty amazing after just one beer as well.


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