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The Male Gaze: Retail Edition

Four new outfitters for every masculine whim.


A chronograph watch at Michael Kors.

(1 of 4)

Cashmere + Waffled Ultrasuede Men's Sweater at Jake.

(2 of 4)

Small packs from Filson.

(3 of 4)


The new Barneys San Francisco men's store—the first in the country.

(4 of 4)


The Everyman's Wrist Candy
When it comes to menswear, Michael Kors has always been unwaveringly practical, a proponent of well-made, seasonless staples. With the opening of his new men’s-only store—his first on the West Coast—he’s reintroducing himself as a designer for the guy’s guy. The spring collection, in stores this month, is a study in casual cool: cotton and linen “pajama” blazers (they’re as comfortable as they sound), fitted cashmere pullovers, and cuffed utility trousers. The accessories, including structured reversible totes, chronograph watches, and camel-leather sneakers, make for easy basics. 845 Market St. (near 5th St.), Ste. 100

Slap Some Leather on that Cashmere
According to designer Jake Wall, “ordinary” is a dirty word. At Jake, his new 3,000-square-foot Jackson Square boutique, menswear is presented with a defiant twist: brightly colored linings, mixed fabrics, and bold prints. He and business partner Nathan Johnson offer San Francisco–made custom suiting (from $2,300) and shirting (from $425), as well as ready-to-wear styles like leather-trimmed cashmere sweaters and Japanese denim suits. The emphasis is on personal attention, from in-house tailoring to the complimentary bar. “It’s a nod to the department stores of old,” says Wall, “when shopping was a complete experience.” 619 Sansome St. (near Jackson St.)

American-Made Fogwear
From its El Niño–proof tin cloth jackets to its no-nonsense duffels, Filson has long been a city standby at local outfitters like Unionmade, Welcome Stranger, and Iron & Resin. Last month the Seattle-based heritage brand opened its first freestanding store in California, offering the full assortment of all-weather coats, cotton-twill button-downs, bags, accessories, and outdoor gear. In addition to wearables, the rustic new shop displays a collection of original photographs of Native Americans by the late Pacific Northwest photographer Asahel Curtis, a reference to the brand’s roots in the Yukon of 1897. 722 Montgomery St. (near Jackson St.)

A Bigger, Butcher Barneys
After spiraling through four floors of jewelry, womenswear, handbags, and heels, reaching the men’s selection at Barneys always felt like a trek. As of last month, however, menswear is getting its proper due with a 19,000-square-foot stand-alone store—the first of its kind in the country. The two-story space, adjacent to the original Barneys, will showcase men’s leather goods, shades, shoes, ready-to-wear, and formal wear by heavy-hitting brands like Dries Van Noten, Thom Browne, Valentino, and Balmain, as well as exclusives from up-and-comers like Hood by Air, Public School, and Fear of God. 2 Stockton St. (near O’Farrell St.)

Originally published in the March issue of
San Francisco

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